Your denim shows up for you. But are you showing up for it? Jeans are a cornerstone of every wardrobe - seasonless, reliable, and effortlessly cool. They’re the pieces you reach for without thinking. But even the most durable denim deserves a little care in return.
Our golden rule for taking care of selvage jeans? Less is more when it comes to keeping it clean. Frequent washing can strip away what makes denim special: the subtle creases, the custom fades, and the way it molds to your every move. Washing machines can be rough on fabric, shrink cotton, dull indigo shades, and wear them out before their time.
How often should you wash your jeans? There’s no single right way.
That’s why we asked our AG team (denim enthusiasts themselves) to share how they care for their selvage jeans, offering real tips and routines. The best advice doesn’t come from a label; it comes from those who live in their jeans.
What is Selvage Denim?
Selvage denim, sometimes spelled “selvedge,” refers to a type of denim fabric known for its tightly woven, self-finished edges. This “self-edge” construction helps prevent fraying and gives the fabric a clean, polished look. When you cuff a pair of selvage jeans, you’ll often notice the crisp outer seams bordered by narrow white lines and a distinctive colored thread running through. Made using traditional shuttle looms, the process is slower and more intricate than modern methods—something that appeals to denim enthusiasts who value craftsmanship. Nowadays, selvage comes in both rigid and stretch styles, with options ranging across different fits, shades, and finishes.
At AG, we craft selvage jeans with intention, sourcing premium fabrics from mills that honor tradition through rich cotton cultivation and vintage shuttle looms.
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Why Is Less More When It Comes to Selvage?
Life gets busy, and the washing machine can feel like the easiest option—but denim, especially selvage, wasn’t made for frequent, harsh cycles. Over-washing can shrink cotton fibers, fade rich indigo, and break down the fabric’s natural strength. If there’s no odor or visible dirt, skip the spin—your jeans don’t need a wash after every wear. Aim for every 10 wears or just a few times a month. Not only will your denim last longer, but you’ll help conserve water and energy in the process. In fact, up to two-thirds of a garment’s environmental impact comes from how it’s cared for after purchase (WRAP, 2012). And washing in cold water can use up to 90% less energy than hot water cycles (Energy Star, 2023).
Michelle Don, AG’s Women’s Design Director, recommends spot-cleaning with a clean microfiber towel dipped in cold water and a touch of eco-friendly liquid detergent. It’s a gentle, effective way to treat minor stains without compromising the fabric.
James Bishop, AG’s Director of Retail, takes a more laid-back approach: “I don’t stress the small stains—I embrace them as part of the journey.” But when a deeper clean is needed, he offers this tip: “Soak them inside out in the bathtub with a dash of Woolite Black and a shot of cheap whiskey (yes, really—it helps kill bacteria).”
Ron Balatbat, AG’s Men’s Design Director, likes to enlist a little help when it comes to washing his selvage denim for the first time. “I wear them as long as I can, then send them to the dry cleaner to maintain color and prevent shrinkage,” he says. After that initial wash, Ron transitions to regular machine washing, always turning his jeans inside out and using cold water to preserve the fabric's integrity.
Miguel Gonzalez, AG’s Senior Graphic Designer, has a practical yet personal approach to denim care. “Paint and ink stains stay—everything else is negotiable,” he says. Miguel prefers a hands-on method, hand-washing his jeans in the tub with a 30-minute cold soak followed by a thorough rinse. “For minor stains, I spot-treat with a damp towel and cold water,” he adds.
Of course, if you're short on time and machine washing is your only option, we recommend using a gentle or delicate cycle to minimize wear and tear on the fabric.
Is It Getting Hot in Here?
Tossing your jeans in the dryer might be convenient, but it can damage the fabric and cause unwanted shrinkage. Air drying, on the other hand, helps preserve the fit, color, and overall integrity of your denim.
Dryers also use a significant amount of energy and can be surprisingly tough on denim fibers. To keep your jeans in great shape, lay them flat to dry or hang them inside out. This not only prevents soggy pockets but also protects against fading from direct sunlight.
You can also run your jeans through a cool-air dryer cycle and then hang them to dry. It’s a helpful method that keeps denim from feeling stiff and helps reduce wrinkles.
“Turn them inside out and run them in the dryer on the lowest heat—almost cold air—with a fabric ball for 10 to 15 minutes,” shares Michelle Don. It’s a gentle refresh that softens the denim without compromising its shape or color.
Natural fading and wear (as shown above) should come from daily life—not the washing machine.
Keep it Fresh
Denim doesn’t always need a full wash to stay fresh—sometimes a few smart habits can do the trick. Michelle Don freezes her jeans overnight to neutralize odors, while Miguel Gonzalez relies on an apparel launder spray for a quick refresh. Ron Balatbat takes a simpler approach, hanging his jeans by a belt loop to let them air out. These in-between rituals go a long way in extending the life of your denim without overwashing.
Shop now and craft your legacy in Selvage denim.
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Sources:
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WRAP (2012). Valuing Our Clothes: The true cost of how we design, use and dispose of clothing in the UK. wrap.org.uk
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Energy Star (2023). Clothes Washers – ENERGY STAR. energystar.gov