Commemorating 20 years of authentic denim heritage, we’ve selected the finest 20 selvages from 12 of the world’s most respected denim mills, representing 6 countries with rich and storied denim histories, in order to create a timeless selvage capsule collection.
Each piece of this collection is crafted using rare selvage denim that pays homage to the old-world denim of our vintage dreams. Each piece is a monument, with unique details of each fabric, mill, and country revealed when observing the essence of the distinct cottons, weaving techniques, shades of indigo, and the characteristic selvage IDs that run the piping of the out seam.
Over time, this denim will develop natural stress lines, unique fades, and a custom fit that belong to you—and only you. Wash as infrequently as necessary to preserve this one-of-a-kind pair and celebrate the unique aging process.
SELVAGE(US English) or selvedge (British English) is a "self-finished" edge of a piece of fabric which keeps it fromunraveling and fraying. The term "self-finished" means that the edge does not require additional finishing work, such as an overlock stitch or bias tape, to prevent fraying.
Selvage denim is carefully woven on old-fashioned shuttle looms that use one long, continuous thread. Once the thread reaches one side from the other, it loops back, creating the selvage stripe on each side. The contrast thread on the stripe, known as the selvage ID, is a way mills would identify their product and method, a tradition that continues today.
All denim used to be selvage, but the booming demand for jeans and denim in the ’50s meant jean makers needed a faster, more efficient method to meet demand. They switched from a shuttle loom to a projectile loom. In the late ’70s and early ’80s, Japan became obsessed with denim. Japanese brands started scooping up old shuttle looms and producing selvage denim themselves. Denim enthusiasts all over the world began looking to Japan for the best selvage denim.
AG searched the world over for the best selvage denim, spending over a year exploring countries with rich histories in cotton cultivation, authentic indigo dyeing techniques, and traditional craftsmanship.
We selected the most well-known and some unknown, denim mills were selected for their exemplary fabrics. Cone Denim. Kaihara. Candiani. Isko. Kurabo. Atlantic. Kuroki. Showa. Nihon Menpu. Shinotex. Nameless. Advance.
20 selvages to celebrate AG’s 20 years of denim making history. Selvage is the rarest and most unique denim, often crafted on original wooden shuttle looms. Selvage denim represents the artisanal craftsmanship of a fabric we love and honor.
Over time, this denim will develop natural stress lines, weathered fades, and a custom fit that belongs to you—and only you. Wash as infrequently as necessary to preserve this one-of-a-kind pair and celebrate the unique aging process.
That perfect fit that looks like it was cut to your body specifically. Those perfect lines and creases that break at just the right place. Those unique fade marks or stains. That all comes from wearing your jeans for long periods without washing. Always read the label before laundering.
What’s your selvage denim care personality?
When it comes to taking care of your indigo, you’re into tradition. You’ve got patience and discipline, and you love to see the payoff. You put in the time and wear your unwashed indigo like a badge of honor. When it finally comes time to launder, you treat the ordeal like a ceremonious affair.
- Wear your jeans religiously and forgo washing for as long as you can handle. When the moment for washing arrives, it’s dry clean all the way. The chemical-based dry cleaning process leaves water out of the equation, so it preserves the indigo and minimizes fading while giving your pair a welcome refresh that nixes dirt and grime.
- Go back to wearing on repeat.
You’ve got respect for the game, but you like to do things your way. You give your denim ample time to break in and geek out over your pair’s personality. When it comes down to washing, you take things into your own hands.
- Wash your jeans once or twice a month, or after 10 wears.
- Hit the tub when the time for washing comes, using cold water and a mild detergent or vinegar.
- Skip the fabric softener.
- Avoid the dryer. Instead, air-dry flat to retain the pair’s shape, or line-dry inside out to avoid fading and soggy pockets.
- Only use the dryer if your jeans have gotten loose and you need to shrink them down a size. In that case, dry on low heat for 20 minutes tops and then air-dry to finish.
You’re a wild one who loves to live on the edge. You throw caution to the wind, letting the washing machine do its thing without a second thought. You trust your process and go with the flow.
-Turn your jeans inside out and toss into the machine with up to 3 or 4 denim garments.
- Indigo bleeds, so don’t wash with non-denim or light-colored garments.
- Use cold water and the delicate setting with mild detergent.
- As an optional step, remove your denim prior to the spin cycle kicks in, and hang dry to preserve your jean’s natural fades and whiskers.
- Skip the dryer. Instead, air-dry flat to keep the jean’s shape, or line-dry inside out.
- Only use the dryer if your jeans have loosened up and you want to shrink them down a bit. To do so, dry on low heat for 20 minutes max and then finish by air-drying.
Our most limited collection to date, celebrating the artisinal history of the most universal fabric.
